How to Clean a Sheepskin Rug: The Complete Guide
Everything you need to know about spot cleaning, deep cleaning, and keeping your sheepskin looking pristine for years.
Your sheepskin rug is one of the softest, most luxurious things in your home. Keeping it that way doesn't require professional cleaning, special equipment, or anything more complicated than what's already under your sink.
This guide covers everything — from the weekly shake-out to handling a red wine emergency. Follow these steps and your Grade A New Zealand sheepskin will stay plush, clean, and beautiful for years.
01 — Daily & Weekly Care
Most sheepskin maintenance is preventive — keeping the wool from matting and dust from settling in. A consistent light routine eliminates the need for heavy cleaning down the road.
Shake it out
2–3X PER WEEK
Take it outside and give it a firm shake. This removes dust, crumbs, and loose particles before they settle into the wool fibers.
Brush gently
WEEKLY
Use a soft wire pet brush in the direction of the wool. This prevents matting and keeps the fibers fluffy and separated.
Rotate position
MONTHLY
Rotate or flip the rug to distribute wear evenly. This prevents one area from flattening faster than the rest.
02 — Spot Cleaning Step-by-Step
Spills happen. The key is acting fast and using the right technique. This process works for most everyday stains — coffee, juice, food, pet accidents.
Blot immediately
Use a clean white cloth or paper towel. Press down and lift — never rub or scrub. Rubbing pushes the stain deeper into the wool fibers and can damage the texture permanently.
Mix a mild solution
A few drops of gentle dish soap or wool-safe detergent in cool water. Never hot water — heat shrinks sheepskin and hardens the leather backing.
Dab the stain
Dip a clean cloth in the solution, wring it out so it's barely damp, and dab the stain gently. Work from the outside edge inward to prevent spreading.
Rinse with clean water
Dab with a fresh cloth dampened with plain cool water to remove any soap residue. Soap left in the wool attracts dirt and dulls the fibers over time.
Air dry flat
Lay flat in a well-ventilated area away from direct heat and sunlight. Once dry, brush gently with a wire pet brush to restore fluffiness.
03 — Deep Cleaning at Home
Once or twice a year, your sheepskin benefits from a deeper clean. This doesn't mean a washing machine — it means a careful hand wash that cleans without damaging the hide.
Fill a tub with cool water
Add a small amount of wool-safe detergent or specialized sheepskin wash. Never use regular laundry detergent, bleach, or enzyme-based cleaners — they strip the natural lanolin that keeps the wool soft.
Submerge and gently agitate
Press the sheepskin into the water and move it gently with your hands. Don't wring, twist, or scrub. Let the water do the work for 5–10 minutes.
Rinse thoroughly
Drain and refill with clean cool water. Press the sheepskin gently to push out soapy water. Repeat until the water runs clear — residual soap is the number one cause of stiff, dull sheepskin.
Press out excess water
Roll the sheepskin in a large clean towel and press firmly to absorb water. Never wring it — that distorts the hide shape and damages the leather.
Dry flat, reshape, brush
Lay flat on a clean surface away from heat and direct sun. Gently stretch to its original shape while damp. Once fully dry (12–24 hours), brush thoroughly with a wire pet brush to restore full fluffiness.
04 — Emergency Stain Guide
Different stains need different approaches. Here's how to handle the most common emergencies.
RED WINE
Blot, then cold water + salt
Blot immediately. Sprinkle salt to absorb, let sit 15 minutes, brush off. Dab with cold water and mild soap. Don't use white wine — that's a myth.
COFFEE / TEA
Blot, cool water, mild soap
Blot fast before it sets. Dab with cool water and a tiny amount of dish soap. Coffee with cream is harder — the fat needs soap to break down.
PET ACCIDENTS
Blot, enzyme-free cleaner
Blot up as much as possible. Use a wool-safe cleaner — not enzyme-based, which damages natural fibers. Dab, don't pour. Air dry completely.
MUD / DIRT
Let it dry, then brush
Don't touch wet mud — you'll smear it deeper. Let it dry completely, then brush it out with a wire brush. Most of it lifts right off dried wool.
05 — What Never to Do
These are the mistakes that permanently damage sheepskin. Every one of them is irreversible.
Do this
Never this
Water temperature
Cool or lukewarm water only
Hot water — shrinks and stiffens the hide
Drying
Air dry flat, away from heat sources
Tumble dryer, radiator, direct sunlight, or hair dryer
Cleaning products
Wool-safe detergent or mild dish soap
Bleach, OxiClean, enzyme cleaners, or regular detergent
Technique
Blot and dab gently
Scrub, rub, or wring — damages fibers permanently
Storage
Roll loosely, store in breathable bag
Fold tightly or store in plastic — traps moisture
06 — Reviving a Flat Sheepskin
If your sheepskin has gone flat from furniture or foot traffic, it's almost always recoverable. The wool fibers compress but rarely break — they just need help standing back up.
Give it a firm shake outside, then brush the flattened area vigorously with a wire pet brush, working in the direction of the wool. For stubborn spots, lightly dampen the wool with cool water from a spray bottle, then brush while damp and let air dry. The fibers will spring back to their original loft.
For sheepskins that have been stored folded, lay flat for 24 hours, then brush. The weight of the wool will help it settle back into shape on its own.
Grade A makes the difference
All Cowhides Direct sheepskins are Grade A New Zealand — the densest, most resilient wool available. Dense wool recovers better from compression, resists matting longer, and maintains its softness through years of use and cleaning. Quality isn't just about how it looks new — it's about how it holds up.
Keep Yours Looking New
Grade A New Zealand sheepskin — the softest, most durable wool available.
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